How To Remove Rust From Sword
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How Do I Remove Rust From Sword
I have a sword made from carbon steel that has been stored in my Mom's basement and information technology has rusted. What should I use to clean information technology and is there something I can do to forbid rust from edifice up on the sword.
Thanks
J
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If the rust is not that bad, I would tell you to use some WD-40 and some fine steel wool(class if the rust is stubborn). I had a blade that had rusted, and it had cleaned it up pretty well. Spray the blade down outset with a calorie-free coat, then apply the wool to buff of whatever spots. I find this works really well. And if yous follow upward with a VERY Light coat, you can protect the blade from wet and other nastiness.
Hope this helps
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As per Skyler's question, it makes a HUGE difference whether the sword is an antique. If it is, then I'thou not qualified to say anything on the subject, but someone around might be (If that'due south the case, try the Antique and War machine Sword forum).
If it'south a modern bract, I find that very fine sandpaper (240) does nicely. If the rust is very heavy, you might employ 120 grit for the worst of it, and then 240 to polish.
And so you'll want to utilize some kind of oil or wax to prevent rust. WD-40 tin work, I've heard mineral oil, and some folks swear by gun oil (makes sense, correct?). I live in south Florida, and the humid climate makes oils unfeasible - I personally utilise wax. There are a few sword specific waxes out there, but neutral (that is, roughly clear colored) shoe polish will do in a compression, every bit will butcher's wax. I utilize Sno-Seal, which is made for leather, just is basically a refined bee'southward wax. I take been told that the organic elements in bees wax are not good for the blade, but I have never experienced the slightest problem. Then again, my blades are used for drills and sparring, not display, so your mileage may vary.
Likewise, if it is a Japanese manner blade, yous may want to mail service where the JSA folks will see it, considering there are very specific polishing techniques used on katanas and such.
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For all my swords custom and production akin, I apply Hoppe's gun oil.
- I also use gun oil, BREAK Free clp.
Originally Posted past Erik I. Carlson
For all my swords custom and production akin, I use Hoppe's gun oil.
Removing rus with sandpaper, might not be a good idea, 240 is still very form for swords.
Fine steel wool or uchico (powderball) from katana cleaning kit does piece of work very good.More Sweat In Grooming Less Blood In Combat
My Site
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yeah
i use mineral oil
you can use choji oil
mineral oil(ane from a pharmacy)
WD-40
gun oil
my brothers friend uses hair clipper oil
some greases
waxthe works!
hey, does anyone know how to remove chips from blades? someone tell me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please!
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They have to be polished out.
- In answer to cleaning it, what type of sword is it?
I have a sword made from carbon steel that has been stored in my Mom's basement and information technology has rusted. What should I use to make clean it and is there something I can do to prevent rust from edifice up on the sword.
Patrick Anderson
slowly learning Toyama Ryu Batto jutsu
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I consider 250 grit sandpaper a good ane for rough finishing, taking out file marks, stuff similar that- not rust removal. For that I'd use more similar 600 grit, or if information technology's pitted or otherwise worse, showtime with 420 or something and finish with 600 or higher moisture/dry sandpaper.
If it helps (it can be hard to find the high grit sandpaper at some hardware stores) yous can gild some of that kind of stuff here:
http://astore.amazon.com/nomadboi-20...ng=UTF8&node=ivFreelance hack... and slash... and thrust...
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Has anyone ever tried naval jelly for removing rust from a sword?
Trying to walk in the Low-cal, Hugh
See i John 1:5
- How did your sword bract get chipped?
hey, does anyone know how to remove chips from blades? someone tell me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! delight!
As for WD-40, I thought it was adept for cleaning, only non for blade storage. I've been using Hanwei sword oil for my Atrims and other Euro swords, and choji oil for my kats.
For very *mild* rust on a katana, uchiko power works well.
"Impossible" is a word that humans use far likewise frequently.
- Seven of Nine
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Some of the things mentioned practise non REMOVE rust. You can do it chemically or mechanically.Chemical removal - acids volition do it .for mild rust try Naval Jelly [phosphoric acid in a gel] , heavier rust volition rquire something like muriatic acid [HCl]. Mechanical removal includes 0000 steel wool with some oil or for heavier rust diverse annoying paper... For preventing rust use wax such as Renaissance Wax, grease such equally RIG [ rust inhibiting grease] or oils designed for rust prevention..The bract could as well be stored in VPI [ vapor phase inhibiter ] paper. For long term storage I utilise RIG then wrap in VPI paper and put in a plastic pocketbook.
Ascertained with certainty
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chips ahoy!!!!
If yous want to go on the geometery of your bract you have to pollish information technology down to the chips terminate. I am such an idiot as is dispised by the sword community and take chipped many times.#300 dust- 800-1200-1500-2000-.....ane day of cutting =1week of pollishing, my experience at least'I like ti pollish more than cutting!!!i utilize mineral oil
yous can apply choji oil
mineral oil(one from a pharmacy)
WD-40
gun oil
my brothers friend uses hair clipper oil
some greases
waxthe works!
hey, does anyone know how to remove chips from blades? someone tell me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please!
Last edited by Stephen C Foster; 08-24-2007 at 04:40 PM. Reason: add idea
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I volition say I accept chipped many blades and have saturday there wondering ,''what now?''Every time I pulled the bract it would saw into the saya,..there is no quick gear up that I know of .Just hour'south of tsuka to tip pollishing.An attempted quick prepare can ruin the temper.If in that location is a faster manner this neophite could use the info every bit Im pollishing now !!!
- Stephen, If you don�t mind me request what are you cutting that causes this much damage? Unless you employ inappropriately hard targets, you should not see this kind of impairment in a sword that is not flawed in some way! Neil.
I will say I have chipped many blades and accept sabbatum at that place wondering ,''what at present?''Every time I pulled the bract it would saw into the saya,..there is no quick fix that I know of .Just hour'due south of tsuka to tip pollishing.An attempted quick set tin can ruin the atmosphere.If at that place is a faster style this neophite could employ the info every bit Im pollishing now !!!
- By the way, a right draw should not permit the ha to contact the saya at all even with a chipped blade � no �sawing� should happen unless you botch the draw quite badly.
... Every time I pulled the bract information technology would saw into the saya,..
Neil
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Sharpening a bract too much volition too subject it to chipping easier. People say samurais used to deadening their blades a flake earlier combat, to avoid heavvy chipping and thus reduce the chances of catastrophic failure. If the blades take very little niku, that doesn't help also...
Confronting ignorance, gods themselves struggle in vain.
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what type of cutting?
I have put a flake into a hanwai applied katana by hitting a piece of typing paper hung from a string with tape.It more than depends on the hardness of the temper vs how sparse ''sharp?'' the border is. All my cuts I do from the draw""now'' And if there is a chip in your blade,or a warp you will feel it in the hand that is on the saya ''my experience''. It is often the manner I find out about the fleck.Every bit I can do a manic work out on all kinds of targets.I know my blades will fail and push the cheep ones to that signal.Im but burning gas"practical Katanas''.PS dont think that your katana tin can even cutting through a modernistic Thousand-mart comfort slipper becouse if it has curvation support forget virtually it.I cant look to exist charged past unarmored tatami mats
Last edited past Stephen C Foster; 08-24-2007 at 07:30 PM. Reason: wrong part
- Ofttimes a sword will non cleanly flake merely push the loosend steel too one side or the other leaving a saw like tooth on the blade, this serration couses the drag of which I speak.Though untrained in 20 years I accept learned to press the back of the blade down then the edge doesnt become threw the saya and take my fingers with information technology.I still accept 9 out of x unmangled fingers!!ps Any body know a quicker fashion to pollish a chip???
I will say I have chipped many blades and take saturday there wondering ,''what now?''Every time I pulled the bract it would saw into the saya,..there is no quick prepare that I know of .But hr'south of tsuka to tip pollishing.An attempted quick set up can ruin the temper.If there is a faster way this neophite could use the info as Im pollishing at present !!!
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[QUOTE=Stephen C Foster;941590]
Some times you can feel a fracture beggining before y'all run into information technology,its merely a little ''catch'' in the cutting, look for small scratches that are on both sides of the blade in the same identify usualy catastrophe ''my experience'' with minor dimples? going upwards to the hamon.Once I saw cracks coming from the dimples.These blades are dangerouse and should exist eather destroyed or displayed nexed to a snapped #440 stainless. Steel is steel, spring by nature to neglect if driveling or improperly fabricated.By the way, a correct draw should not let the ha to contact the saya at all fifty-fifty with a chipped blade � no �sawing� should happen unless y'all botch the draw quite badly.
Neil [/QU And so in a tight saya yous accept i/16 of an inch loose on eather side of the sword?or do you just wish to talk crap nearly my draw,wich you havent seen or felt the upshot of..Which level of Dan are you ?OH ya this was supposed to be about how to get a chip out of a sword, Non off ones shoulder....Dan how do we fix our poor swords subsequently nosotros have not been perfect with them is the question ..non are nosotros as perfect as yous would like to exist.
- well...from what i accept been seeing on sword forum, it seems some of the kaze blades are a scrap lacking. i have heard proficient and bad things, mine really chipped on some harder water bottles...not to hard though...that is what annoys me
How did your sword blade get chipped?
- water bottles definately,try not to hit the cervix.I have been realy surprised how .piece of cake some blades fleck ,curle over or twist.Im lucky enough to accept close to a dozen cutters so if I chip one I only pollish that one and cutting with the one I just pollished,I had non been aware of the chips every bit flaws only took it as a matter of class.I ain many blades and shudder to think they would ever contact ceramic armor,BRAVE Heart STICKS SWORD IN DIRT...,NOT !!!I read somewhere that for every fallen is a sword ,so I tin meet picking up the blades effectually you,I dont know if a samurai would become to battle with only one sword but for every kill theres an extra blade.
well...from what i have been seeing on sword forum, it seems some of the kaze blades are a fleck defective. i accept heard proficient and bad things, mine actually chipped on some harder water bottles...not to difficult though...that is what annoys me
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...I take put a flake into a hanwai practical katana by hitting a piece of typing paper hung from a cord with tape...I know my blades volition fail...
I'd say that's a agglomeration of defective sword yous have at that place.. either that or you lot're doing something seriously wrong.
BTW, you talk about chipping simply what you actually described sawing your saya is a rolled edge.
Anyhow, this thread is supposed to be well-nigh rust-removal, so let's become back on topic shall we?
Certified nerd; if you need an Excel sheet or an AutoCAD drawing done, just drop me a PM!
Source: http://www.swordforum.com/vb4/showthread.php?82041-How-Do-I-Remove-Rust-From-Sword
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